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Meta tkun Paceville

I left a comment on an excellent post by Ramona Depares that dealt with the proposed Paceville revamp (Paceville revamp my foot). When I decided to move out of my parents’ house in Paceville, before I came to Luxembourg, some weird homing device in my brain led me to choose an apartment in Paceville. Crazy right? It had nothing to do with being close to the mater and pater – they’d be shifting base to Gozo anyway upon retirement. It’s just that Paceville has always felt like an alien part of Malta – a metropolitan suburb if you will that manages to be a cut off from the reality of the rest of the island thanks to its peculiarities.

Sure, Paceville had the traffic jams and the noise but its also the place where you can pop out to have a snack at 3am and observe the drunk ramblings of the latest visitor it has received with arms wide open. Paceville has a life of its own that no other place in Malta can emulate. It is a life that grew in a test tube in spite of and not thanks to any controlled civic plans. For a long time in the nineties “Paceville” was a synonym of the doorstep to hell … mentioned in the same breath as Satanic Masses, Drunken Hedonism and other pleasures of the flesh while enjoying star status on the earliest episodes of Xarabank. The more it grew the less it could be controlled and no attempt at competition (like that sore excuse of a rival called Bugibba) could even dream of stealing its show.

The suburb that never sleeps is now subject of a proposed revamp. Revamps under the nationalist government have come to mean an investment in street furniture, a couple of coats of paint and every now and then a pedestrian zone replete with kitschy statues. Tenders galore in fact. Which is the last thing that Paceville needs. Here is the comment I left on Ramona’s blog for it says the rest of what I have to say. (Featured video: Mike Spiteri – Paceville – Malta Song for Europe 1992).

We've got Beach Bums too in P'ville

Great post Ramona, and this coming from a Pacevillian through and through. I am not for an authoritarian, ultra-regulated approach because entertainment is by its very nature anti-regulation. You cannot create entertainment through regulation.

Having said that I see two early solutions to the problems of Paceville. First the basic interventions that you highlighted and that are absent. Upper St George’s Road (Spinola is not Paceville – yes those 500m make a difference) has long begged for a multi-purpose intervention centre – police, first aid and information office. Yes. Information office. A center of fun bang in the middle of Paceville – tickets to nightclubs, information about special offers and bands/djs performing in the area , where to watch your football etc. You know keep an eye on what’s happening by being part of it.

Then get the taxis/transport people to pull their act together and finally the most difficult part – incentivise Paceville business to get out of its stupid and crass mentality of the mediocre race to the bottom. Entertainment as I said earlier does not come out of regulation. It does not obey rules. It plants itself in fertile and welcoming soil. Strictly speaking Paceville has never been anything superlative (although we have all had our great nights out there) but it has to fight hard against the possibility of becoming once again a synonym for the doorstep to hell as it was in the early nineties.

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Saudade

There are days when I miss my hometown. This would not be one of them.

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On the Street Where I Live(d)

This photo has been making the rounds on Facebook and email. It is a snapshot of a particular corner of Paceville circa 1982. It’s an incredible photo that threw me back to my childhood. I was a seven year old Pacevillian there and Paul’s Punch Bowl was the place that served great pizza’s (if I remember well it was the calzone that rocked). The restaurant grew and grew – as did the rest of Paceville – and would soon incorporate one of the first nightclubs and gamesroom in that road: the Ace of Clubs.

At this time Paceville was not so much the hedonist den of sin that we know today. Opposite the Punch Bowl you can see a the house with the green door. I remember the people who lived in that house. I remember the fruit and veg man who would sell his wares right beside that wall. This was a Paceville that had lost its residents from the forces (Mintoff, remember?) and had gradually surrendered large parts of its terrain to a Libyan community of sorts that used to terrorise the likes of myself and my brother on our errands to the Queen’s and London stores (Ball and Paceville Streets respectively).

You could still stroll through the back parts of the Hilton and enjoy public land all the way to the sea. Saint George’s Bay was a rough gap between the new buildings on the Dragonara promontory and the Sunday football paradise that was the area just below Pembroke. You could count the shops on Saint George’s Road between Wembley and Paul’s Punch Bowl on one hand. There was Bonello Store (grocer – now a kitsch jewellery shop next to Maxims) and there was the Scotsman. I’m not sure whether Peppermint Bar existed as yet. My memory fails me on that account.

Back to the photo. The snapshot is taken from a position that would place the photographer close to the steps of what is now Burger King (corner of Saint George’s and Wilga) – to be more exact it is probably taken from just outside what used to be the Gelateria Lungomare. Paul’s Punch Bowl is now mainly Stiletto’s (until some time ago Rock Cafe). The white wall is now Plush and I am not sure what the vegetable vendor would make of all the shishas though I am sure the Libyans of Ball Street would not have minded.

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Paceville 1982
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Photo Probably taken from far right of this image
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rockCafe - before the gentlemen came